We headed for the backroads of Brittany in early April with dangerously high expectations of catching a salmon. Traveling off the beaten track is has always appealed to us. Early on we carried backpacks into the wilderness; these days we travel by car and sleep indoors. As always, in anticipation of eating locally.
Where in the world do you think a 1920's dance hall could evolve into a showcase for documentary photography plus a trendy cafe? In Paris, of course! La Bal is in Montmartre, off the beaten track in a non-descript building on a dead-end street near Place de Clichy. A century ago this neighborhood was on the fringes of polite society. Today, "Le Pol Nord" (in the words of Paris Mayor Bernard Delanoe) is making waves in both arts education and contemporary cuisine.
Most of us can only dream of realizing our childhood fantasies. But Philip Starck - restaurant designer and avowed socialist - had both a dream and backers willing to invest 5.5 million euros. The result is Ma Cocotte, a canteen in Paris' Marche aux Puces serving beautifully executed traditional food in a comfortable setting at moderate prices. It may be utopian, but it’s not proletarian.