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  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

KALE GOES GASTRONOMIC IN PARIS

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Long regarded a green non grata, kale is making its debut on the upscale Paris dining scene. The tough, fringed leaves of this cabbage family member.don't lend themselves to delicate presentations.  A chef who works with kale has to make a bold statement.   Geoffroy Maillard did just that last week at La Table d'Eugene, the Michelin-rated bistro in our neighborhood   My luncheon serving of yellowfin tuna arrived literally blanketed by whole kale leaves.  

Chef  Maillard didn't stop there.  He positioned two mild roasted green chilis like parentheses on top of the kale. The spiced tomato puree surrounding the generous tuna slices  while fresh and tasty, was also reminiscent of - dare I say it - ketchup!  In the past, I've had to "Google" the exotic produce on Chef Maillard's menu before bringing my clients.   These ingredients were a no-brainer.

Kale is quite likely a new addition to Chef Maillard's repertoire.  Why else would the waitress set my table with a fish knife?  There was no way I could have cut through kale's firm center rib with it.  After I requested a regular table knife, she set every other serving with one as well.  Diners around me all ate the chewy leaves and wiped up the sauce with pieces of freshly baked house rolls.

If kale makes a comeback in France, credit will be given to the passionate efforts of an American, Kristen Beddard.   In the last two years, she has made it her mission to raise consumers' awareness of  kale's nutritional virtues and encouraged French farmers to grow it.  You can find out more about her plans by visiting the website: The Kale Project.

  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

"G" is for Sauce Gribiche (the 'Other' Mayo)

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Why learn to make mayonnaise when it's so affordable and easy to find at the market?  For beginning cooks this is not a rhetorical question.  If you've not done it before, binding oil with water can be as intimidating as making your own water from hydrogen and oxygen.  But after students actually make their own mayo and taste it alongside store-bought (I keep a jar on-hand just for this purpose) they're forever sold on the homemade variety.

Read more: "G" is for Sauce Gribiche (the 'Other' Mayo)

  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

"F" is for Fennel Sauce

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When I promised you an alphabet of easy French sauces, I was thinking eggs, milk, butter, olive oil.  Anything but vegetables.  That was last January. It’s July, my refrigerator is bulging with produce and a vegetable sauce now seems like the perfect complement to a summer meal.

Read more: "F" is for Fennel Sauce