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  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

STAY-AT-HOME SOUFFLE PANCAKES

                                                                                                                                         

Once I decided to  teach cooking classes online from my home kitchen, my daughter began sending suggestions in the form of posts from her favorite social media sites.  What does recipe-sharing currently look like online?   The first one that arrived was a one minute TikTok video of Maddy (no relation), a young Asian girl with a soft voice and pink hair, preparing Souffle Pancakes.  As unlikely as it might seem, this one minute video turned out to be a teachable moment. 

No, I am not gearing up to teach a recipe in one minute.  Ditto for dying my hair a color not found in nature.  On the other hand, the subject itself was too intriguing to just discard.  After the many viewings required to write down the ingredients and visualize the recipe, I called in my granddaughters to help me give it a test drive. Puffy pancakes with whipped cream and chocolate sauce are irresistable to kids of all ages, and Maddy’s concise editing made the process look easy.  We also had all the ingredients she mentioned already on hand: 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons milk, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder and a few drops of vanilla extract.
 
I knew we were in trouble as soon as we sifted the dry ingredients into the egg yolks and milk.  Our mixture became dry and cracked when we stirred it.  Maddy’s version was thick but smooth and moist.  The addition of two additional tablespoons of milk solved the problem.
                   
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                First batch of pancakes in the pan.          Celeste folds in the egg whites       The finished product!!!
We beat the egg whites as directed, but they didn't look as firm as Maddy’s.  Wait, we added sugar!  She hadn’t mentioned sugar among the ingredients.  We quickly beat two tablespoons into the whites for another quick save. The final step of folding the whites into the yolk mixture went off without a hitch. 
The disks of fluffy batter baked in six minutes as promised.  The girls were pleased with their success and the pancakes quickly evaporated from their plates.  My takeaway was a renewed appreciation for the role of visual memory when following recipe directions.  I plan to record my Zoom classes and make a copy available to everone who attends.
SOUFFLE PANCAKES
Ingredients for 2 servings:
2 large eggs at room temperature, separated
3 tablespoons milk
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoon granulated sugar
Stir together the yolks, milk and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl.  Sift on the flour and baking powder.
Beat the egg whites to firm peaks adding the sugar slowly as the whites rise.  Gently fold the whites into the egg and flour mixture.
Oil and heat a large skillet on a cooktop.  Carefully spoon out 4 pancakes onto the pan.  Dot 1/2 teaspoon water in two or three places around the outside of the pan.  Cover and cook the pancakes for 6 minutes, carefully turning them after 3 minutes.
Serve immediately with whipped cream and chocolate sauce.
 
  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

STAY-AT-HOME STRAWBERRY RHUBARB GALETTE

French pastry is as easy as apple pie. In fact, the French version of American pie is easier and tastier than the original. It is easier because there’s only one pastry layer and no constricting pie pan. Tastier because French pie pastry is made with butter rather than shortening. This French take on an American classic, called a galette, provides a delicious way to showcase your favorite summer fruits.

The term galette is a good example of the many references a French word can possess (much to the frustration of language students). The unappetizing dictionary definition for it is: a flat, round cake. In real life, a galette can be anything from a Breton buckwheat crepe to a yeast-risen Mardi Gras King cake. To ask the meaning of a food word in French is like asking an Eskimo to define snow.

The galette has found its way onto menus in the past two decades with the rise of casual dining. Its rustic, you might say, slightly unkempt look is part of its appeal. If some juices are seeping out and the crust is uneven, so much the better.

The recipe below comes from Jacques Pepin Celebrates (2001). Jacques Pepin has lived in the States for sixty years, first as a super-star French chef, then as an exacting teacher to home cooks. I admire the ways in which, over the years, he has adapted his formidable technique to the modern American taste for simplicity.

One note of caution when you make this galette: The all-butter crust will soften rapidly even in an air-conditioned kitchen. Work quickly, and place the filled galette in the freezer for 10 minutes before baking to insure that the pastry rim stays folded in place. For easier handling, use the crust ingredients for the Turkey Pot Pie in which some of the butter is replaced by shortening. Either crust will complement the fruit filling beautifully.   

 STRAWBERRY RHUBARB GALETTE

Ingredients for 8 servings
Pâte Brisée Dough:

1 1/2 cups unbleached flour

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" pieces

1/3 cup ice cold water

Filling:

1 pound rhubarb, rinsed, ends trimmed, cut into 1 inch pieces

1 pound strawberries, rinsed, hulled and halved

1/3 cup sugar

Bottom layer:

3 tablespoons flour

3 tablespoons ground almonds or almond flour

1/4 cup sugar

Glaze: 3/4 cup seedless raspberry jam or red currant jam, melted

Dough: Pulse the flour salt and butter pieces in with work bowl of a food processor for 5 seconds or work by hand with a pastry blender until the butter is coated with flour and the consistency of coarse sand. Add 3 tablespoons of the water and process another 5 seconds until the dough is just coming together and pieces of butter are still visible. Do the same if working by hand. Add more water by the tablespoon until the begins to form. Remove the dough from the bowl,  Quickly flatten the dough, dust with flour on both sides and roll it out between layers of parchment to a 8" x12" rectangle.  Refrigerate the dough for 20 minutes while preparing the filling. 

Filling and Baking: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Assemble the dry ingredients.  Toss the strawberry and rhubarb pieces with 1/3 cup sugar in a mixing bowl.  Remove the dough from the refrigerator.  Roll it out into an oval 16" long, 14" wide and 1/8" thick.  Spread the dry mix over the rolled dough to within 2" of the edge. Pile the strawberry rhubarb mixture on top. Draw up the sides of the dough around the fruit pieces holding them in place until they soften enough to form a crust.  Slide the galette onto a bake sheet and place in the freezer for 10 minutes.  Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the crust browns. Loosen the galette on the bake sheet if juices have escaped during baking so it won't stick when cooled. 

Spread on the glaze over the galette while it is still warm. Serve at room temperature with whipped cream if desired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel

STAY-AT-HOME COCKTAIL HOUR

 

 

Restaurants are desperate to find a way to reopen this summer and maintain social distancing guidelines.    Cafes and bars are unlikely to make a profit with only 25% of their normal seating capacity.  How will they overcome the ghastly cost-benefit ratio created by these restrictions?   As usual, the dining-savvy French have a solution.

Televised footage on France 2 recently showed proposed curbside dining in Paris.  That’s right, a small table and  two chairs were set up on the street side of the curb.  In the spirit of full disclosure, it 'was in a no-parking space.  In this city of charming narrow streets visitors soon learn to share the sidewalk with the outdoor cafe seating.  If it’s allowed, car passengers may soon be able to eye diners with their plate of steak frites at arm's length.

No one seems to care in France; they know how to adapt.  When smoking indoors was banned in
2006,  Paris restaurants quickly expanded and weatherproofed their outdoor terraces to accommodate smokers.  On the other hand, the ability to sit in an outdoor cafe and nurse an espresso or glass of wine for an hour takes years of practice to master. 

It’s unlikely that American cities will embrace France’s cultural norms, but economic hardship is bound to force changes to the outdoor dining scene this summer.  Stay-at-homers need not worry.  The pleasant ritual of a cocktail with a tasty homemade spread on crackers requires little more than a little forethought and the desire to enjoy life at the table.

This post was inspired by recipes sent by Elizabeth Dill and Chris Rowbottom who have traveled with me to Paris and Provence. The Beet Tzatziki is a great stand-alone starter or side-dish. Ruth Reichel’s Liver Pate recipe is an easy riff on an classic starter that pairs well with any cocktail.  

My addition to the cocktail hour is mellow Ramp Butter.  Ramps are wild miniature leeks which the Menonimee Indians called 'shikaakwa' and French explorer LaSalle translated to 'Checagou' when describing the area we now call Chicago.  In the past, ramps appeared in early spring exclusively on menus of high-end restaurants.  This year 4 ounce bundles of ramps have been available at Whole Foods in the Chicagoland area.  

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LIVER PATE

1 pound chicken livers, cleaned

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 1/2 sticks cold unsalted butter

1 small apple, peeled, cored and chopped

3 tablespoons Cognac or Calvados

2 tablespoons cream

1/2 tablespoon kosher salt; 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, ground

Remove the veins from the livers.  Hold filament between the two lobes and scrape out the thin veins on both sides.  Pat dry and set aside.

Saute the onion in 2 tablespoons butter until soft, about 3 minutes.  Add apple and cook another 3 minutes.  Put into a food processor.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter, lightly season the chicken livers and add to the pan, sauteing over high heat for 4 minutes (2 minutes on each side).  They should be brown on the outside and still pink within.  Remove from the heat, take away from the stove and add the Cognac.  Return to the heat and carefully put a lighted match into the pan, swirling until all the flames die down and all the alcohol has burned off.  Add livers to the food processor.

Pour in the cream and puree until smooth.  Add the remaining butter, bit by bit until smooth.  Season to taste, then pour into little bowls or crocks and chill for at least 3 hours.  Bring to room temperature before serving.

Recipe from Ruth Reichl My Kitchen Year  

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SOFRA’S BEET TZATZIKI

Ingredients for 2 1/2 cups:

1 cup cooked, shredded beets (any color)

Vegetable oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic (one clove)

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 1/2 cups whole-milk plain or sheep’s milk yogurt

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Salt and pepper to taste 

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Trim the root end of the beets, coat them lightly with vegetable oil and wrap tightly in foil.  Roast them in a skillet with 1/2 cup water until they can be pierced easily, about 1 hour.  When cool enough to handle, remove foil and rub off the skin with a paper towel.  Grate the beets on the largest hole of a box grater. 

Combine the garlic, lemon juice and salt in a mixing bowl.  Allow this mixture to sit for 10 minutes to mellow the garlic.  Stir in yogurt olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.  Fold in the beets, fresh dill and season to taste.  Serve cold or at room temperature.

Recipe from Spice by Ana Sortun

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RAMP BUTTER

Ingredients for 1 1/2 cups

1 bunch ramps (4 oz)

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper, to taste

Trim off root end of the ramps, rinse them thoroughly under cold running water.  Cut the entire ramp into 1” pieces.  Saute pieces in 1 tablespoon butter for 5 minutes, or until they are completely wilted.  Puree ramps with remaining butter, cut in 1/2” pieces, and lemon juice.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Refrigerate and allow to come to room temperature before spreading on crackers or sliced baguette.

Recipe adapted from Shelly Westerhausen, Vegetarian Ventures