- Written by Madelaine Bullwinkel
EATING WELL IN PARIS
On occasion, I will enjoy a restaurant meal so much that I leave wishing I could move next door. This happens rarely, even in Paris where the opportunities to find an unforgettable meal seem endless. Finding a perfect combination of atmosphere, cuisine and service at a reasonable price is worth sharing. That's why I want to tell you about my recent lunch at Les Papilles.
Even the most direction-challenged visitor can’t miss this bistro’s bright-yellow store front flanked by olive trees near the corner of Blvd St Jacques and rue Guy Lussac (5th). The owner Bertrand BLUY greets you warmly as you enter and directs you to one of the small tables that line the walls. The decor here is worth scrutiny because this place is also an épicerie, a grocery store. What can a diner expect from a restaurant named 'taste buds' that sells squid ink pasta and tinned sardines?
The relaxed setting at Les Papilles did not prepare me for the gastronomic meal I was about to enjoy. In fact, such a possibility appeared unlikely after I peeked in the kitchen and found it is about the size of a closet in suburban Chicago. I couldn’t imagine how the chef and his one sous-chef managed to stay out of each other's way!
Given the size of the kitchen, Les Papille’s single menu format is not surprising. Diners can order all four courses (there is also salad option), or any combination à la carte. I opted for a starter and main course.
My order of cauliflower soup was served in two parts. First the waiter place a large porcelain generously filled bowl on the table. It was followed by a large soup dish containing a scoop of creme fraiche the size of a large egg, bits of raw cauliflower, tiny buttery croutons, a stem of fried parsley and a drizzle of olive oil. I was instructed to ladle the thick soup into the dish and stir well before tasting. It was delicious.
The main course of lamb shoulder with provencal vegetables was presented in a copper gratin dish still hot from the oven with a plate on the side. Once again, every aspect of the dish, from the tender meat, al dente vegetables and silken demi-glace was perfectly executed. The chef’s added garnish of cloves of garlic confit and a layer of sugar-snap peas and onion slices provided a bright, sweet accent without distracting from the traditional theme.. I could imagine the fanfare with which he stuck the sprig of fresh thyme into the meat just as it left the kitchen.
I'd forgotten how nice it is to serve yourself from a generous portion. It gives the diner a sense of familial participation. Too often restaurant food arrives posed and contrived. This fall I’ve been underwhelmed on occasion by meticulously arranged plates garnished with fruit. Two examples come to mind: octopus with melon and pickled cherries, also watermelon and radish slices with veal. I suppose I was primed to appreciate the skill and humility of the traditional cuisine at Les Papilles.
With a glass of red wine from southwest France and a coffee, my bill came to 36 Euros. Had I been able to eat the cheese course which was Forme d'Ambert, a mild blue cheese from the Auvergne, with prunes and one of the two cold desserts choices that day, the meal would still have been less than 50 euros. My papilles are still smiling.
