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A PERFECT VACATION MEAL

Interior of Capital Coal Neighborhood Eatery, Santa Fe

Spring cleaning at my house includes the refrigerator. What better time is there than after a vacation when it's empty? As I rearranged jars of ancient condiments in the crowded door bins, I recalled the most satisfying dining experience I'd had in Santa Fe.

Four of us friends since high school spend a week together every year after Easter in a warm weather city. Santa Fe's vibrant artistic vibe, its museums and historic churches made it this year's choice. The town's thriving food scene also figured into our decision.

Rather than trust the many crowdsourced restaurant guides, I looked at upscale places endorsed by critics and journalists for our principle meal of each day. We entered the iconic Coyote Cafe on our first night in town to find it packed and so noisy we couldn’t hear one another speak across the table. We wondered why the young people seated at tables on either side of us were drinking and not eating until we saw that entree prices started at $40. The appetizers we shared were also pricy and looked better than they tasted.  Two nights later at Restaurant Martin I ordered (in a momentary lapse of judgement) an $86 bottle of white Sancerre which was brought to the table warm rather than chilled. Soon afterward, a small basket of bread ($3.50 per person) arrived half-filled with a hot rock to keep its contents fresh. You get the picture.

Elk Chili at Capital Coal Neighborhood Eatery

Our unexpected dining sweet-spot turned out to be new New Mexican venture, Capital Coal Neighborhood Eatery, a micro food hall near the train station in the historic Guadalupe district. Several concept restaurants with limited menus and a bar shared its light-filled, airy open space. Our meal choices included a platter of House Fried Corn Tortilla Chips, Queso, Monterey Jack Cheese, Queso Fresco, Pico de Gallo, Lime Crema, Red or Green Chile and an Arugula Salad with Lemon Roasted Artichoke Hearts, Goat Cheese, Crispy Proscuitto, Cider Poached Prunes, Warm Crostini, EVOO, Lemon Juice. All our large, attractively presented plates cost no more than $16.

The first food halls in America began as extensions of indoor markets in the 19th century. Food halls are experiencing a resurgence in today's economy because they are affordable, high quality incubators for young chefs and entrepreneurs to refine new concepts with less financial risk. Whose idea was it to create Capital Coal?  The female partner in this venture is Chef Dakota Weiss, the former chef at Coyote Cafe.

Our foursome found the historic Pinon Court inn an perfectly situated and friendly place to stay. The staff kept us well supplied with fresh chips, salsa, margaritas and a light quesadilla supper on the evenings that we opted to eat in their cozy dining room. We played bridge, snacked and enjoyed each others company with the same abandon we had after school in our teens.

Photo on the wall of Coyote Cafe

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